Such as a fine dice of pumpkin and crisp apple bound in cashew cream and topped with quince and Yarra Valley salmon roe. Wow. Silken trout served on an artful squiggle of Jerusalem artichoke puree is a heavenly combo of the earth and sea.

A sheet of liang pi – a Chinese flat noodle – covers beef in a spicy mountain pepper sauce with feijoa providing an unexpectedly comfortable bedfellow, while the famous Four Pillars “gin pig” comes with a stuffed wombok parcel that’s like the poshest dim sim you’ve ever seen. It’s a knockout.

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